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Author Topic: Vacuum Line 101.  (Read 5617 times)

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Offline IowaEagle

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Vacuum Line 101.
« on: October 09, 2005, 02:59:42 PM »
Your AMC Eagle probably has what seems like miles of vacuum lines going everywhere from and to strange and mysterious places.  A good number of these are related to the emissions controls of the '80's.   One bad line can make your car run terribly.  So its best to get hold of a vacuum diagram and some new hose and spend the weekend replacing it all.

Now a word about vacuum diagrams.  In a perfect world there would be only 1 diagram -- even 1 per year would be tolerable.  However, every year AMC Eagle seems to have a myriad of combinations and permutations -- based on the EPA regs that year, for what state the car was delivered to, engine, transmission, etc.  etc.   So if you are in desparate need of a vacuum line diagram you will need a TSM for your particular model year and you will also need to know which one will apply to your car. 

And your AMC Eagle will also have vacuum lines for the 4WD (except '80), the A/C if you have it, your Power Brakes and Cruise Control (if you have it).  All these need to be in good shape too.
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Offline Aquila

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Re: Vacuum Line 101.
« Reply #1 on: March 23, 2009, 09:45:46 AM »
This is gonna sound "nubish" but where do I find such a diagram(s). This is the primary problem with my car right now, Some of the lines are not even hooked up or the are but they just don't go anywhere.

Offline IowaEagle

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Re: Vacuum Line 101.
« Reply #2 on: March 23, 2009, 10:05:54 AM »
Most of them are within the AMC Eaglepedia.  See the very first board on the forums index page.
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Not a Jeep.  Not a Car.  Its an AMC Eagle!

1982 Eagle SX/4 Sport;
1980 Concord DL;
1970 Ambassador 2 Dr HT, SST
1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport;
2002 Hyundai Santa Fe;
2008 Jeep Patriot Sport - Freedom Drive II

Offline Aquila

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Re: Vacuum Line 101.
« Reply #3 on: March 23, 2009, 10:07:14 AM »
Thank you sir

Offline jepstr67

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Re: Vacuum Line 101.
« Reply #4 on: July 14, 2009, 04:58:07 PM »
Or.......on a 258, go get a cast iron intake manifold off of a Gremlin and "back date" your engine to 1970 when there was not a spaghetti farm of vacuum hoses under the hood.  I did that to my 83 CJ8 and I've been a happy camper ever since. Runs like a top. Idles like a champ. NEVER a problem since!!!!

I kept the EGR, PCV, and TAC but all that other junk went in a box on the shelf along with the Carter BBD. I run a Rochester 2G now. I rigged up a direct line from an air pump I added to the catalytic converter to keep it from burning out. That goofy check valve set up never worked and rusted out about twice a year.

I pity anyone who actually has to try to get all that vacuum mess to work correctly. Good luck!
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Offline Canoe

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Re: Vacuum Line 101.
« Reply #5 on: August 10, 2011, 12:44:42 AM »
Anyone ever done a count of how many feet of what size vacuum hose is needed to redo them all?

Offline BenM

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Re: Vacuum Line 101.
« Reply #6 on: August 11, 2011, 02:10:37 PM »
Or.......on a 258, go get a cast iron intake manifold off of a Gremlin and "back date" your engine to 1970 when there was not a spaghetti farm of vacuum hoses under the hood.  I did that to my 83 CJ8 and I've been a happy camper ever since. Runs like a top. Idles like a champ. NEVER a problem since!!!!

I kept the EGR, PCV, and TAC but all that other junk went in a box on the shelf along with the Carter BBD. I run a Rochester 2G now. I rigged up a direct line from an air pump I added to the catalytic converter to keep it from burning out. That goofy check valve set up never worked and rusted out about twice a year.

I pity anyone who actually has to try to get all that vacuum mess to work correctly. Good luck!

Haha, I went the other way on the Pacer, except I used a non-computer BBD. It was a way to use parts I happened to have laying around and put a 2bbl on it, plus I think the water cooled/heated manifold is better for the temperature ranges in Pittsburgh. It added a bit of wiring and vacuum hose to the engine, but I put electric fans in too and used the 4" vacuum switch from an Eagle for the overdrive kickdown.

On the topic of lengths I know you'll need about 3'-4' of 3/4" hose for the PCV and brake booster. Distances will be different if you use hard line where the factory did or switch all to soft line.

It would be nice if someone had a kit with the nylon in the factory colors because I don't feel like buying it in huge rolls.
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