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Author Topic: I'm having issues upgrading the distributor/distributor coil I got from Gronk.  (Read 2498 times)

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Offline greymarooneightytwo

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I have an 82 eagle, I've bought a kit from gronk with a new coil, cap, rotor, and carb.

Okay, I've made a sort-of mount for the coil I got from Gronk, which is unidentified.



I changed the dizzy cap and rotor, put in new plugs and wires... and now I'm down to connecting the new coil, which I thought I had connected right.

Can someone please explain like I'm five, and tell me how to do the resistor bypass?

It's not starting in it's current state, and I'm betting that's why.

I turn key, no cranking.

When it didn't start immediately, I did the ECM Test, grasping at straws.

I'm pretty sure I'm just not bypassing the resistor, but I'm not sure.

I'm having problems identifying the wires I'm looking for... and I don't know if the coil even requires the bypass, though I'm assuming it does.



Is anyone awake?
 
I'm sure Gronk will respond eventually, but I'd like to get this back up and running... with the new parts.

Time differences suck.

Why in gods name did I buy an 82?
« Last Edit: January 19, 2013, 04:47:11 AM by greymarooneightytwo »

Offline greymarooneightytwo

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After tearing into the wiring harness, I discovered that for some reason, none of this matches either the diagrams in my chilton, or the documentation for the ecm test bypass.

Maybe it's leftover weirdness from the PO, or maybe it's because it's an '82 and the trend seems to be that 82's are crazy.

At any rate, I got it to turn over, after plugging the correct lines into the coil.

I can't see if it stays running, because it's really late.

In the morning, first thing, I'm going to investigate the bypass.

At the moment, the purple and orange wires go DIRECTLY from the ignition module to one of three connectors ( the one with four wires) and then lead out to the distributor, still purple and orange, and not up the harness to the ecm like I expected... and I can't explain that.

Maybe I'm not understanding the bypass properly.

Regardless, tomorrow... make sure it runs, check timing, install carb, BYPASS the ecm... if it isn't already...?

Then clean up the wire mess, and try to make time to get the shift linkage taken care of... or at least discover if that's the issue with going into park.

If anyone can think of anything I'm forgetting or have overlooked, let me know please.

GOODNIGHT :banghead:

Offline ammachine390

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1982 models are the unique year for ignition wiring. They are actually easier to bypass the ECM than the later years. Your ignition module should have 3 plugs coming out of it. The one plug that has 2 wires, yellow and black, are the wires that the ECM uses to control the timing. To bypass the ECM, all you have to do is unplug that connector, and connect the 2 terminals together inside the plug on the module connector. All the other wiring, is ok, the distributor wires are already directly connected to the ignition module. Another option would be to buy an ignition module for a non 82 Eagle, as it only has the 2 harness plugs. Just connect the 2, and don't worry about the third harness.
Dan
1981 AMC Concord DL 258 Auto

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Offline greymarooneightytwo

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Interesting!

It all starts to make sense....

At the moment I'm battling the studs for the carburetor, using two nuts.

I'm accomplishing nothing except stripping them.

???

Offline GRONK

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If you used the same 2 wires that went to the stock coil with NO ignition mods, it will start.  Something is backwards or came apart when swapping over.  Could be firing order of plug wires?

If having a hard time getting studs out and the 2 nut way isn't working, head over to a Checker/O'rielleys and check out a stud removal tool.  It grabs the whole stud and keeps even pressure.  It will pull a stubborn one out.  Make sure you use some penatrating oil if they are tight.

I'm in the shop, you can text me at (719) 337-3977 w/ pics if you need specific Q's answered.
"Bucket" 1983 Limited Wagon
"Tootie" 1984 Wagon
Owner - GRONK Performance

Offline greymarooneightytwo

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I did end up getting a stud remover last night, and everything else went without a hitch.

I got it up and running last night, now I'm just down to keeping it running.



Offline Baskinator

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Did you gap the spark plugs to .045" and double check that each wire is connected to the correct terminal/cylinder? Once you've got the carb installed, you should probably be sure to time the ignition for best results.

On a side note, and not to scare you, but I had one of those e-coils go bad very quickly (about a week) and left me stranded. The Pertronix Flamethrower I got after that has worked excellently since then, about 5 months, even with lots of hard starting in between. Maybe I just got a dud though...
1982 AMC Eagle SX/4 (Work In Progress)

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Offline greymarooneightytwo

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I suppose I should have given this some closure, sorry.

I got the carburetor successfully installed, the distributor upgraded, the ECM Test, and then got it idling long enough to time it. It's running pretty dang good, better than it ever was before.

I still feel the carb needs some tuning, and I want to get a wideband afr gauge and sensor... but that has to wait until at least the next paycheck.

I really need to address a massive exhaust leak I have (as in, manifold back) before I start going too crazy though... priorities.

Offline GRONK

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Remind me what your elevation is and I can help you get it timed out properly.

Have you adjusted your idle vac for max hg?

Have any pics to post?
"Bucket" 1983 Limited Wagon
"Tootie" 1984 Wagon
Owner - GRONK Performance

Offline greymarooneightytwo

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Median elevation here is about 100'

I bought a vacuum gauge; am I just supposed to tune until it maintains the highest reading?

I got kind of lost there...

I have to get my vacuum gauge inside the car working, too... I'd like that.



That's a picture I took that night, still had some things out of place in it.

I timed it at just below 9 if I recall...
« Last Edit: January 29, 2013, 01:52:05 PM by greymarooneightytwo »

Offline GRONK

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9 deg at 650 RPM should be dead on for your elevation.

At idle, w/ the choke open, put the vac gauge on manifod vacuum and adjust your idle misture screws for max vacuum at 650 RPM, car blocked and in 1st gear.  When you take it out of gear, the RPM's will rise, you want to set it under average idle load.
« Last Edit: January 30, 2013, 10:43:57 AM by GRONK »
"Bucket" 1983 Limited Wagon
"Tootie" 1984 Wagon
Owner - GRONK Performance

Offline greymarooneightytwo

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Ah, I knew I was going to have to fix my tach to get it perfect, but I didn't think to tune the carb in gear.

(I forgot to mention I "guessed" the rpms, based on what the car used to sound like at idle, before the tach failed.)


Offline Baskinator

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Glad to hear you got it running well! I've been adjusting my carb and tuning the engine for max vac lately also, comes with the cold weather  ;D
1982 AMC Eagle SX/4 (Work In Progress)

Photobucket Album: http://s1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff479/Baskinator/

 

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