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Author Topic: Transmission delayed into reverse - and slow going into drive -more when cold  (Read 3232 times)

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Offline SNOWMAGEDDON

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Hi Transmission guys
I hope I can pick everyone's brain about a 998 (I believe) on my 1988
Thanks in advance
It reminds me of an old 1963 Impala powerglide(?) problem I never fixed and sold the car as I moved up the teenage ladder of cars
SYMPTOMS:
Hot coffee-fresh donuts-5:30 am- just buckled seat belt
Start car - pull back to reverse - nothing - wait 15/20 seconds it's in reverse
Back out - push up to drive - nothing - wait 10/15 seconds - it's in drive
Drive away-
First stop sign - stop - look both ways - step on gas - sometimes it's not in drive (anymore) and revs (ungeared) then magically ( I know it's not magic) drops back into drive in mid-rev and takes off - and it's like a neutral drop -
SPILL 16 OUNCE HOT COFFEE IN LAP (can't sue McDonald's) DROP DONUTS ON FLOORPAN
(I hate it when that happens)
It's a new eagle to me and I've yet to get too far - fluid added is it  - and yes. I checked fluid level in neutral and with fluid hot
I don't get the same symptoms at all when warmed up so that makes me think fluid restrictions - but again - I'm not familiar with trans symptoms and how they point to a specific problem- and I'm not goint to freak-out because this 88 is a keeper and sooner or later this will be a thing of the past - no matter what it takes
I know I should (and willl) at least start with a new filter and new fluid - but I like to worry about worse case scenarios -
What ye think?

Thanks again
SNOWMAGEDDON

http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/torqueflite-tom-hand.html
« Last Edit: February 01, 2012, 02:27:50 AM by SNOWMAGEDDON »

Offline SNOWMAGEDDON

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Re: drops slow into reverse - and slow into drive - usually when cold
« Reply #1 on: February 01, 2012, 02:25:37 AM »
Sometimes Chrysler owners complain of delayed motion of the vehicle after dropping it in gear from park. This is due to the converter not being fully charged in park. The best remedy for this is to start the vehicle in park and then immediately shift to neutral. This will fill the converter which gives a quicker vehicle response.

HERE'S THE SOURCE OF THE COMMENT ABOVE
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/torqueflite-tom-hand.html

LIVE WITH IT? SHIFT INTO NEUTRAL ALL THE TIME BEFORE GEARING? THAT DOESN'T SOUND ALLTOGEHTER FUN

Offline A-A EAGLE

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Change the oil filter of your gearbox first.
Next, sometimes coming into gear slowly has something to do with hardened rubber rings inside the gearbox. The fluid will not build up enough pressure. I had this on my Chevy Suburban, it took more than 10 seconds to come into gear. I added a fluid into the gearbox which weakens the rubbers inside. An automatic gearbox expert pointed me on that. It cured the problem completely. The fluid is completely harmless and a good alternative for a complete rebuild only for a couple of hardened rubbers. But I %&#@$##@ can't remember the name of the stuff. When this does not work you have to look further and I think a rebuild is not far away.

Anjo
Holland

Offline 68AMXGOPAC

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I used the "SeaFoam" brand tranny additive in my wagon that had those symptons.Not a true repair but it helped it along.Once it is warmed up good, it didn't do it at all.
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1968 AMX GOPAC 390/4SPD.
1984 Eagle Wagon I6 258 auto
1983 Eagle Wagon I6 258 EFI convert ( Caroline)
1995 Cadillac Seville STS Norstar 32V 310 H.P. V8
1995 Cadillac Eldorado ETC Norstar 32V 310 H.P. V8
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Offline SNOWMAGEDDON

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I talked with a factory trained guy here in Indiana - Chrysler transmission plant is next door and he and 20,000 other guys lost jobs in that town @ GM Chrysler Borg Warner on and on -  anyways he said the same - SEALS - I've used Seafoam in engines to clean out carbs in 4 carbed goldwings and it works for that - but - I've heard TRANS-MEDIC mentioned....
took her out today and went to neutral before shifting elsewhere and it helps - but today was the first time she started to REV (higher RPM) and slip some for a second in 2nd....
Might be my very first on my own rebuild guys - everyone says it's cake (yeah-right) I willl say that it is a second car and it being down to try won't mess with the rest of my life---
Maybe I can find a core 998 and rebuilt it and then swap
Maybe I should look into a 727?
I understand the bellhousing is different unless it an AMC - SO--- what about Jeep transmission swap option for this 998 automatic
Thanks in advance

Offline DaemonForce

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Might be my very first on my own rebuild guys - everyone says it's cake (yeah-right)
Do not be put off by this. The A500/904/998 rebuild process is cake. No walk. I had a little bit of help rebuilding mine after it finally blew up.

The real chore is getting it unmarried from the drivetrain. You have two choices: Pull the engine(lol no...) or pull the drivelines and transfer case on the way to it. Once you have it out, the fun begins. I don't have a shop so I needed a friend's work bench to do the rebuild. An overhaul kit for me was $150 but it just wasn't worth it. The transmission works perfectly fine but I still hate it. The day I find a working AX15, T-5 or similar OD transmission, it's going in the Eagle without hesitation. I don't care what I have to change to do it either.
1983 Limited
AMC 258C {R2:11.Oct.12}
Carter 2681 {R2:28.Oct.12}
TorqueFlite A998 {R6: -20.Apr.12}
NP129 {R2:28.Apr.12}
M35-273 {???}
Compression: 10.5:1
Corrected Idle: 500RPM

Offline carnuck

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For the 727, '80 up FSJs are the place to find them. In the junkyard, look under the rigs for the front driveshaft. It HAS to be on the driver's side to be correct. Not all of them are 727. Cherokees with 6 cyl (80-83) are 50-50 999 (which is better than 998 but still not as strong as 727)
   Look at the shape of the trans pan on the passenger's side. A bulge in the pattern near where the dipstick goes in means it's 727. 904 goes straight back.
   For the hardened seals, my trick has always been to add a can of STP engine oil additive to the trans oil.
FOR SALE
'87 Comanche 4.0L AW4/NP242 3.73 gears, lifted 5" on near new 33" tires $3500 obo
'82 Eagle Wagon (Brown Betty) 4.2L/727/NP229 and soon 8.25 rear axle and non-vacuum 3.08 front to match. 235/75/15 tires. It's down to minor body work (someone creamed my driver's door but I have another in good shape) almost rust free and interior work (seats are worn and carpet torn). $2000 but about to go up due to more work being done.

Pics of my other for sale stuff http://tinyurl.com/jimsclads

Offline Baskinator

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I never have and never will put any additives in my transmission. They are meant to swell the rubber seals, and weakened seals will cause premature failure. Your best bet is to just put new fluid and a new filter in. A shift kit with new manual valve allows the fluid to circulate through the torque converter in park, and other modifications will give the clutches better engagement for a firmer shift (smooth shifts with less engagement can cause clutch burn up, burnt smelling fluid being a sign).

There are a lot more seals in there, and the transmission is more prone to failure than the engine. The engine can handle a bit of carbon build-up, whereas the transmission must be clean inside to last long. Additives are a temporary fix, but the question is "how temporary?".
1982 AMC Eagle SX/4 (Work In Progress)

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Offline NYEagle

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Just let it warm up a little first, in the Winter months. This isn't a new car that you can just start and drive away immediately. You said you had the same problem with your old Impala, right? The transmission needs time to get up to proper operating temperature when it's very cold out.

My Eagle has the same problem as yours, though not as severe. Once the warmer weather comes, the problem goes away. If it doesn't, THEN you need to start thinking about a rebuild.


~ Joe in NY

Offline carnuck

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That's the nice thing about the STP. It's really just an oil "thickener" and doesn't cause the seals to swell. If the oil getting past the seals is thicker, it forces the seal tighter to the edge and it allows it to slide better too.
FOR SALE
'87 Comanche 4.0L AW4/NP242 3.73 gears, lifted 5" on near new 33" tires $3500 obo
'82 Eagle Wagon (Brown Betty) 4.2L/727/NP229 and soon 8.25 rear axle and non-vacuum 3.08 front to match. 235/75/15 tires. It's down to minor body work (someone creamed my driver's door but I have another in good shape) almost rust free and interior work (seats are worn and carpet torn). $2000 but about to go up due to more work being done.

Pics of my other for sale stuff http://tinyurl.com/jimsclads

Offline SNOWMAGEDDON

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I use lucas in harley gearboxes? sounds reasonable

 

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