Author Topic: Rear diff yolk(SP?)??  (Read 14026 times)

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Offline Mechanic

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Rear diff yolk(SP?)??
« on: February 02, 2010, 12:31:34 PM »
I am having a bit of a problem with El Mat's 80 concord. just finally put the new rear U-joint in. snugged it up to the yolk(SP??) and it just slid around in there. there was no small ledges like the eagle to keep the u joint in place. and the clamps didn't have the squeezing power to clamp them down.

I'm at a bit of a loss at what to do here, other than go and get another U-joint that has the two small C-clamps on the inside like the old U-joint.

Any suggestions??
2000 Toyota 4runner 221,000 k's (DD)
1997 Chevy S10 180,000 k's (Project car)
1988 Mazda RX-7 248,000 k's (For Sale)
1984 AMC Eagle Wagon 192,000 k's (Project car)
1981 AMC Eagle SX/4 65,000 k's (Restoration Project)
1981 AMC Eagle SX/4 140,000 k's (Trail build)
1981 Chevy Camaro Burlineta 134,000 K's (Performance build)
1977 Ford F350 Dually with dump (farm truck project)

Offline monsterbronc

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Re: Rear diff yolk(SP?)??
« Reply #1 on: February 02, 2010, 12:38:58 PM »
if the clamps wont squeese it, it WILL fail prematurely. either replace the strap clamps, or do as I did and shim them with 1/2 inch strips cut off of a hose clamp between the clamp and strap.  as for the missing ends, center it as best as you can.
1981 Eagle wagon, daily driver/project, (The Beast)
1979 Bronco, hauler/crawler, (Monster)

E-85/alcohol powered "81" 1/2-ton Limited wagon, punched-ported 266, 4.0 head, Comp RV cam, TFI ignition, 2150 carb, AX15 5 speed, NP-242 (low+awd shift on fly), 3.55 gears, 6" total lift, Solid axle swap, with K5 chevy springs in the rear, 235/75/15 BFG TA KO's

Offline El Matador

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Re: Rear diff yolk(SP?)??
« Reply #2 on: February 02, 2010, 12:43:50 PM »
It's entirely possible that I may have just bought the wrong u-joints.  When I bought them, I was given two choices.  I forget what exactly they were, I think one was internal something-or-other and the other was external something-or-other.

If you need to buy another u-joint then let me know, and I'll reimburse you at the meeting.  Also give me the other ones and I'll return them if I'm still within the return period.
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Offline Mechanic

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Re: Rear diff yolk(SP?)??
« Reply #3 on: February 02, 2010, 12:48:24 PM »
Do you think I'd be able to get the squeezing power with those small 3/8 bolts though?? Even after it's been shimmed? I might take pictures of the old U-joint and new U-joint at lunch so you guys can see what I'm talking about.
2000 Toyota 4runner 221,000 k's (DD)
1997 Chevy S10 180,000 k's (Project car)
1988 Mazda RX-7 248,000 k's (For Sale)
1984 AMC Eagle Wagon 192,000 k's (Project car)
1981 AMC Eagle SX/4 65,000 k's (Restoration Project)
1981 AMC Eagle SX/4 140,000 k's (Trail build)
1981 Chevy Camaro Burlineta 134,000 K's (Performance build)
1977 Ford F350 Dually with dump (farm truck project)

Offline monsterbronc

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Re: Rear diff yolk(SP?)??
« Reply #4 on: February 02, 2010, 01:00:25 PM »
Mine holds just fine, they dont need to be super tight, just as long as the cap wont spin in the yolk, otherwise, they fail, and usually wear the yolk out as well, thats probobly why mines loose, and needs shims, I havent tried, but if I find new clamps, it might fix it.

I bet they are the wrong ones, I bet the "Internal" ones he mentioned are the right ones. I have learned in the past, when 2 different parts are called for, if its not too expensive, buy both and bring the one you didnt use back.
« Last Edit: February 02, 2010, 01:02:31 PM by monsterbronc »
1981 Eagle wagon, daily driver/project, (The Beast)
1979 Bronco, hauler/crawler, (Monster)

E-85/alcohol powered "81" 1/2-ton Limited wagon, punched-ported 266, 4.0 head, Comp RV cam, TFI ignition, 2150 carb, AX15 5 speed, NP-242 (low+awd shift on fly), 3.55 gears, 6" total lift, Solid axle swap, with K5 chevy springs in the rear, 235/75/15 BFG TA KO's

Offline amcinstaller

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Re: Rear diff yolk(SP?)??
« Reply #5 on: February 02, 2010, 01:02:42 PM »
i think the u-joint is supposed to have the "lips" on the caps that center it in place in the rear yoke. maybe its different on eagles, but on my spirit, i had them. the concord is still a 2wd unit, isnt it? id just get the right ones. no one likes to do a job twice. :)
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Offline IowaEagle

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Re: Rear diff yolk(SP?)??
« Reply #6 on: February 02, 2010, 02:24:42 PM »
Sounds like you need the internal clips. 
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Offline Mechanic

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Re: Rear diff yolk(SP?)??
« Reply #7 on: February 02, 2010, 04:29:45 PM »
Alright, hereare some pictures anyway. may as well post them since I've already taken them.

here is the old U-joint





And the New U-joint


2000 Toyota 4runner 221,000 k's (DD)
1997 Chevy S10 180,000 k's (Project car)
1988 Mazda RX-7 248,000 k's (For Sale)
1984 AMC Eagle Wagon 192,000 k's (Project car)
1981 AMC Eagle SX/4 65,000 k's (Restoration Project)
1981 AMC Eagle SX/4 140,000 k's (Trail build)
1981 Chevy Camaro Burlineta 134,000 K's (Performance build)
1977 Ford F350 Dually with dump (farm truck project)

Offline AMCKen

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Re: Rear diff yolk(SP?)??
« Reply #8 on: February 03, 2010, 01:53:24 AM »
Yep, you need the other joint for that YOKE. : )
The yoke for the new joint you have has little tabs on the outside edge to keep things centred.
« Last Edit: February 03, 2010, 01:55:41 AM by AMCKen »
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Offline Mechanic

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Re: Rear diff yolk(SP?)??
« Reply #9 on: February 03, 2010, 09:47:54 AM »
Yep, you need the other joint for that YOKE. : )
The yoke for the new joint you have has little tabs on the outside edge to keep things centred.

I KNEW IT!!! haha! alright, well thanks guys for the help. and dean, with your permission I will go and buy another U-joint to fit this beast.
2000 Toyota 4runner 221,000 k's (DD)
1997 Chevy S10 180,000 k's (Project car)
1988 Mazda RX-7 248,000 k's (For Sale)
1984 AMC Eagle Wagon 192,000 k's (Project car)
1981 AMC Eagle SX/4 65,000 k's (Restoration Project)
1981 AMC Eagle SX/4 140,000 k's (Trail build)
1981 Chevy Camaro Burlineta 134,000 K's (Performance build)
1977 Ford F350 Dually with dump (farm truck project)

Offline El Matador

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Re: Rear diff yolk(SP?)??
« Reply #10 on: February 03, 2010, 10:32:11 AM »
and dean, with your permission I will go and buy another U-joint to fit this beast.

Sounds good, and I'll pay you back at the meeting on the 9th.
1973 Matador 2 door
1979 Concord 2 door
1980 Concord 4 door
1980 Eagle 2 door
1980 Eagle 2 door
1981 Eagle SX/4
1981 Eagle wagon
1982 Concord 2 door
1987 Eagle wagon

Offline txjeeptx

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Re: Rear diff yolk(SP?)??
« Reply #11 on: February 03, 2010, 03:26:55 PM »
I ran into this issue, only I had already installed the u-joint into the driveshaft, and was trying to fit the shaft into the car when I discovered there was  a reason for those clips in the pinion yoke cups on the joint. I realized I could go back to the parts store and get the right u-joint, or I could replace the leaky pinion seal and get the correct pinion yoke, which I did, since the Eagle factory yoke had a groove worn in it from the old seal. The correct yoke for the non-clipped u-joint is for a Jeep D35, like used in the XJ/YJ/ZJ. It has tabs cast into it to keep the joint centered.

Using a non-internal clip u-joint(Jeep style) in a factory Eagle yoke will result in an epic FAIL.
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Offline maximus7001

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Re: Rear diff yolk(SP?)??
« Reply #12 on: February 26, 2011, 04:33:38 AM »
I had this problem with my 81 Concord 10 years ago. The proper ujoint is suposed to be a combination ujoint which has two inside clips for the yoke connection and two outside clips for the driveshaft connection but the parts book did not show this. Since the driveshaft was already rebuilt with both ujoints being outside clip ones I had to get another ujoint of the same brand with inside clips and swap the two caps and everything worked out fine.

I still have the other new homemade combo joint and it is for sale if anyone wants it. It has a grease fitting for $20 shipped within Canada or the US.

Another note: My 85 Eagle has a different yoke with the tabs.
« Last Edit: February 26, 2011, 04:36:32 AM by maximus7001 »
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